A Timepiece Primer
We, the Timepiece staff, absolutely love wrist watches, and we think that the more unique the timepiece is, the better. Some of us here even collect unusual & bizarre watches from around the world. The owner of Timepiece.us himself collects Soviet-era Russian military watches (His favorite is a cobalt-blue Russian Submarine Commander's timepiece with a 17-jewel movement). Others of us love and admire the classics, like the Oyster Perpetual from Rolex - a watch that was first produced in 1926 and is still in production today. This classic was the first airtight and waterproof timepiece, and it set the standard for all waterproof
jeweled movements to follow.
Since you’re visiting us here at the Timepiece website, we're pretty sure that you love watches too. And if you’re thinking of investing in a high-quality timepiece, but you don’t know the first thing about them, then this is a great place to start. We've put together this Timepiece Buyer's Primer for your edification and enjoyment. This is written for the general public and those interested in learning about fine timepieces, therefore, we’ve written this guide in easy terms and plain English. Furthermore, in case the reader finds our primer interesting and wants to learn more, we’ve included links to websites and technical papers that describe mechanical timepieces in far more technical detail as well as the various designs and inner-workings of the world’s best timepieces. Enjoy!
Timepiece versus Watch - What's the difference?
An interesting question for which there is no definite answer – the difference between a timepiece and a watch is mostly a matter of choice and aesthetics. But for purists, the term “Timepiece” is usually reserved for a fine handmade watch with a complex jeweled mechanical movement. A well made complex jeweled timepiece from established makers like Rolex or Breitling can cost thousands, and certain rare & top-end models from low-volume makers have been known to sell at retail for up to $50,000. These timepieces are designed using such high quality materials and made to such exacting tolerances, that they are capable of easily outliving their original owner, and become family heirloom or estate pieces. But for now, let’s go back to the initial question of timepiece versus watch – our opinion? Call it what you want.
In a mechanical timepiece, the various shafts, gears and pivoting mechanisms must move freely, repeatedly and accurately – therefore, the “bearings” they ride on must have extremely high tolerances and predictable properties. In a watch that has a jeweled movement, these bearings are made from industrial grade gems, usually synthetic sapphires. The ruby has also been used successfully in masterfully built timepieces. Because these jewels have an exactly known hardness and are extremely smooth, the watchmaker can predict the amount of friction generated. This allows the design of a more accurate timepiece. Synthetic sapphires are also known to be quite stable in wide temperature ranges and are able to operate without oils, making a jeweled movement ideal for operating in demanding environments. Interested in learning more about jeweled movements? If so, take some time to read the excellent
Wikipedia entry on Jeweled Bearings.
Basic Differences in Watch Types
There are three basic kinds of watches: (1) Purely Mechanical, (2) Analog Quartz, and (3) Digital Quartz. A classic timepiece is always mechanical (no batteries, quartz or circuitry of any kind) with simple or complex functions and jeweled movements. While we will concentrate on introducing you to the mechanical timepiece, we do want to let you know the difference between the three:
Mechanical Timepiece
Uses the stored energy of a wound spring to drive a complex mechanism of gears and masses, whose rotational movements are mechanically translated into known speeds. This rotational movement is used to move hour, minute and second hands at a predetermined speed, thus tracking time in an accurate manner.
Analog Quartz Watch
Using the principal of Piezoelectricity, this type of watch uses a quartz crystal that vibrates at the known frequency of 32,768 Hertz when exposed to a low electrical current. The voltage fluctuations in the quartz is then measured by a special electronic circuit, and tracked by a digital counter. Analog means the time is displayed using three hands for displaying hours, minutes and seconds. Low maintenance and never in need of winding, they are also known to be more accurate than a mechanical watch.
Digital Quartz Watch
Closely related to the analog quartz watch, the quartz digital watch uses the same principle of piezoelectricity to measure time, however, it uses an LCD screen to display the time, instead of physical hour, minute and second hands.
Why a Mechanical Watch?
If Quartz is generally more accurate, requires less maintenance, and is usually far less expensive than a top-end mechanical watch, why do people invest considerable sums of money into a fine timepiece? It’s usually a matter of appreciation for the detail and workmanship that goes into the creation of the timepiece, the aesthetics of the piece, and the prestige of the watch. Some mechanical watches can also appreciate in value over time, so purchasing one as an investment is also a possibility. In many cases, it’s a combination of all of these factors.
Choosing a High-Quality Timepiece
There are many high-quality mechanical timepieces available today, both new and vintage. The vintage market is a vibrant place where collectors (like us) and enthusiasts routinely pay princely sums for rare models of mostly European but also American heritage. Choosing a Timepiece is a personal decision that we simply cannot make for you; however, we can certainly provide some ideas that you may find useful:
Features
What watch features are critical to you? Is the visible mechanism of the
BlancPain One Minute Flying Carrousel so perfectly appealing that you can’t look away? Or do you want a timepiece that can tolerate extreme abuse and pressure? Many makers manufacture waterproof timepieces that can easily handle the pressure and temperature variations of demanding environments.
Warranties
No matter how well made your fine timepiece is, nothing is perfect. There is always the slight possibility that your new timepiece may require adjustment or repair. Make sure when purchasing a new timepiece that you get a warranty in writing.
Authenticity
Unfortunately, fakes are abound. Make sure your buying from an reputable authorized dealer of the brand you are interested in, and that they supply a certificate of authenticity. Many timepiece purchasers, even some knowledgeable ones, have been duped into purchasing counterfeit timepieces.
